Backpackin' Red Peak Pass Loop - Aug 2022
First, there is a short version, followed by pictures, then a long version. Enjoy!
Short version:
The target route was Red Peak Pass Loop, 5 days, about 50 miles. We arrived at Yosemite around 8:30am at the meetup spot. We (me, niece Sam, and Ben) headed up to the John Muir Trail head. Starting near Happy Isles (4000 ft), we hiked up to the Nevada Falls overlook, then up to our first camp along the Illilouette River, around 10.5 miles, 7000 ft. Weather was good, some spritzy rain, a few loud thunder booms, but dry. Next day up to Lower Ottoway Lake about 7 miles, 9700 feet. Weather was nice on arrival, but dark clouds loomed on the horizon over Red Peak Pass. Enjoyed the remaining partial sun/warmth. I fished, then it began to rain. Fish were biting on / off during the squalls. We set camp during a downpour. Wind, rain, thunder, and hail. Everything is soaked except for our bedding and a couple of pieces of tucked away clothing. Light to mild rain all night and woke up to the same. Except now Red Peak Pass at 11,050 feet was completely engulfed in a cloud layer. Not safe to pass, we retreated back towards Happy Isles, hoping it would break so we could dry out. Nope. Spritzed rain the entire way back to the car. Nothing like an 18.5 mile retreat in a day. Despite being soaked and a few body aches, it was a really great time and our spirits could not be dampened. Try again next year!
Long version:
After a 20 year hiatus, I decided to go backpacking again. Things have changed dramatically with the gear since my last trip. What they called micro-lite back then is considered extra heavy now. Adding to my incentive to return, my niece Samantha, aka Sam, is a Wilderness Ranger at Yosemite. Part of her job is to go backpacking in Yosemite for days at a time to do a variety of tasks, one being to check on backpackers that they have all the necessary requirements (permits,bear canister, etc.). Also, she offers sage advice which there are numerous ill-equipped looking people who need it. The few interactions I did witness, I was impressed. She is really good at her job.
We (Ben and I, unfortunately Max couldn't make it) met Sam at the Yosemite Village Store at 8:30am. She provided us with our permits (score!) and we made our way over to the trailhead. Typically, the first mile to the trailhead starts at Happy Isles with the throngs of tourists, car campers, day hikers and backpackers. We avoided all this since Sam drove us up a service road where she is allowed to park right at the trailhead–score again! We set out on the John Muir Trail (JMT) at 4000 ft. Sam and Ben set a blistering pace while I tried to get my legs. Good news is we came together often because Sam had to check permits, etc since she was on duty. JMT up to Nevada falls overlook, then up further to the left turn onto the Merced Pass trail. On the way up to the left turn we saw gobs of people. After the left turn, no one. Around 10.5 miles at roughly 7000 ft we pitched camp, near the Illilouette Creek which was running lazily down the valley. We had tri tip, baked potato, and fresh tomatoes for dinner. Dessert was peanut butter cups. Yum! During the meal there was lightning and thunder overhead. This put on quite a show with a giant clap over us. Fortunately, no rain. Storm passed, and we tucked in for the night.
Woke up the next day at 6:00am. I smelt smoke. Looked up on the ridge above us and could see smoke. Looked like a lightning strike started a fire just on the other side of the ridge. Once Sam woke up, I alerted her and she called in the GPS coordinates. This became known as the Uncle Don incident. We broke camp around 8am, then up to Lower Ottoway Lake around 8 miles. We meandered through fern groves and pleasant forest for the first 2 hours. We zig zagged across the Illilouette Creek a few times which was running with more energy. The storm higher up the mountain from the previous night must have kicked it up a notch. Arrived at Lower Ottoway around 1:30pm, had lunch at 9700 ft. Above was Red Peak Pass (11050 ft) and Upper Ottoway Lake where threatening clouds loomed. We hoped it was nothing while I fished. Caught several trout –brook, rainbows. The storm blew in and we danced around under trees until it let up. This repeated for a while. It was pushing towards 5pm and we had to set camp. The deluge of rain, hail and wind then happened. We tried to keep our stuff dry, but most everything was damp or soaked through. Sam and Ben had their tents up and 3 minutes later they were in standing water. I chose to find somewhere under a tree above any basins. They quickly joined me. Sam proclaimed I'm never coming out of my tent. Ben asked if she was a fair weather backpacker. Sam stated, 'Yes, I'm from Southern California!' We hunkered in our tents for warmth. No dinner, except for I ate a pack of ramen, raw. We all hoped tomorrow would yield clear skies.
Next morning I arose at 5am. Notice, I didn't say 'I woke up…'. I think I slept for what felt like 15 minutes as the rain lightly pelted the tent all night. I put all the damp to totally soaked clothes next to me so they would at least be warm to put on. I exit the tent around 5:45am, still raining. I look up towards Red Peak Pass where we are supposed to cross and it is covered in storm clouds. Can't even see an outline with zero sign of letting up. We discuss and conclude it is not safe to go over Red Peak Pass given both sides are mostly on granite (slick). We smartly decided to retreat with the hopes it would clear up enough to where we could dry our gear out and give it a go again. Nope. It rained just enough all day to keep us damp. While on the way back down, the Uncle Don incident looked to be doused by the rain as there was a good amount of smoke seen on top of the ridge near where we camped the first night. We keep pushing forward, completely drenched. Eventually, we get to the JMT / Merced Pass trail intersection which meant we had roughly 4 miles to the car. Sam has to put on her work face again as she encounters a few backpackers. Ben is on a mission. We are all suffering in our own way, but we all kept smiling and laughing. We get to Sam's car around 5pm after around 18+ miles for the day. Whew!
We said our goodbyes and went down the road to our respective homes. Despite the weather, it was a great time seeing Sam and Ben in a beautiful location. My legs and feet feel like I just ran a marathon. Try again next year!
Great report, great trip. You ruined my tent.
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